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Nowadays, men tend to favour functional jewellery like cufflinks and watches but the antique men’s jewellery of the Victorian, Edwardian, Art Deco and Mid-Century eras were flashier. The trend has even made a comeback thanks to the Peaky Blinders TV series.
The key to buying vintage men’s jewellery is knowing your budget. Be clear with the jeweller about your price range.
Signet Rings
A signet ring is the perfect accessory for the modern gentleman. It can expand your pairing opportunities with collar bars and cufflinks while adding a touch of heritage and tradition to your look.
In times gone by a signet ring was an important part of a gentleman’s wardrobe as it was used to seal official documents. The ring was usually engraved with the family crest and then dipped into hot wax to create an impression. The resulting mark verified that the document was genuine and that it originated from the person who signed it.
Today, the signs of a man’s ancestry are more likely to be displayed on his smartphone or computer screen, but there is still something about displaying your family crest in solid gold that speaks of pride and identity.
Tie Pins
Often referred to as a tie bar or tie slide, these are metal clips that latch behind your shirt and help keep your tie in place. Like a cufflink but for your neckwear, they can come in many different shapes and metals to match your style. Some even have gems affixed to them to add a little extra flair.
Tie pins (or stick pins) and tacks can leave little holes in ties if used too frequently so are best reserved for more formal looks. They work well with woven silk or coarse fabrics, such as wool and cashmere neckties.
Usually shaped like bars or circles, they can also be designed to represent your interests with designs such as mustaches, wings and cars. Some have a small T-bar with a chain and fastener that can be put through a shirt buttonhole for added security.
Collar Buttons
Mens’ collars come in a few styles. Those with a smaller distance between points (like spearpoints and tab collars) lend themselves to being worn with collar pins, clips or bars. These accessories close the space between the collar points and elevate your tie knot.
Unlike cufflinks, collar pins, clips and bars don’t need to be a uniform size. They’re just as important to wear as your shirt front buttons. If you lose one it’s best not to replace it with a shirt front button because the eyelet won’t fit. Instead, use a pair of matching sleeve gauntlet buttons.
Fort Belvedere has a great selection of antique, vintage and previously owned mens cufflinks and collar pins in gold and silver. Shop now to find the perfect accessory for your wardrobe.
Ascot Pins
Ascot pins are a stylish way to secure your ascot tie or cravat. They are particularly suited to events such as Royal Ascot, Henley Regatta and smart weddings. They were popular throughout the 19th century, so there are still plenty of affordable antique examples to choose from.
Gold is a classic material for Ascot jewelry, but you can also find it in silver and platinum. Silver can be polished to a bright shine or oxidized for a more vintage look. Silver is more prone to tarnishing than gold, so you may need to take extra care to keep it looking its best.
If you’re looking for an antique ascot pin, Turnbull & Asser is the brand to trust. This authentic Jermyn Street label has been in business for over 130 years and holds a current Royal Warrant from Prince Charles.
ID Bracelets
Men who want to look stylish and confident can’t go wrong with a pair of antique cufflinks. These silver or gold designs are crafted with a horse motif and were popular during the Victorian era when newly stiff shirts required an elegant finishing touch.
Tie pins – also known as stickpins – were first worn by wealthy early Victorian gentlemen to keep the silky folds of their cravats in check. Soon the trend caught on and was used by both men and women to accessorise ties, neck scarves and hats.
ID bracelets were popularised by American servicemen during World War II. These bent metal bands or thick chains with a metal plate were engraved with the soldier’s name, rank and serial number in case they were injured or killed. This tradition continued into civilian life in the 1970s when Americans wore ID bracelets engraved with the names of soldiers missing in action or prisoners of war in the Korean and Vietnam Wars.