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Col du Tourmalet encapsulates the spirit of bicycle racing. First used in the Tour de France in 1910 the pass sent cycling into a new era and has since been fought over more times than any other climb.
Easily identifiable by its two huge peaks, it can be ridden from either the east starting at Sainte Marie de Campan or the west from Luz Saint Sauveur.
The history
Along with Alpe d’Huez and Mont Ventoux, Col du Tourmalet is one of the most famous climbs in cycling history. It made its first appearance in the Tour de France in 1910, when Octave Lapize won on what was then an unpaved mountain road. He went on to win the stage and later that year the overall Tour – his only Tour de France victory.
The pass has been crossed by the Tour more than 80 times – making it the most used climb in its history. Hundreds of thousands of riders have struggled up the road since, most of them not professional cyclists racing to the finish line but regular people seeking their own sense of cycling fulfilment.
There’s no other climb quite like it. The scenery, the history and the sense of achievement are all part of its magic. As you zig-zag up the mountain, inching towards the summit, remember all the greats who have come before you.
The route
The Col du Tourmalet first appeared in the Tour de France in 1910 and is now the most used of all the mountain passes. Octave Lapize was the first rider to cross the pass on that occasion and went on to win that stage and the overall Tour.
From the east (St Marie-de-Campan) and from the west (Luz-Saint-Sauveur) both sides of the Col offer a challenging climb with stunning scenery. Beware of cows and other livestock on the way up though; they do tend to wander into the road.
The gradient is initially quite deceptive as the road is paved and has plenty of room for two-way traffic, meaning your eyes can easily fool you into thinking the incline is only around 4% when in reality it’s much steeper. Once the gradient really kicks in it becomes a serious effort as you climb towards the top of the pass. Once you reach the summit the road descends through some of the most spectacular mountain scenery in the Pyrenees.
The climb
The Col du Tourmalet is one of the most iconic climbs in the Pyrenees. Partly it is because of its regular appearances as a mountain route in the Tour de France (it has been crossed more than 70 times) but it is also because it offers a stunning mountain ride, challenging and rewarding.
Whether you start from Sainte-Marie-de-Campan or Luz-Saint-Sauveur the Tourmalet has a bit of everything. The west side starts with a long false flat before kicking in to a gruelling 8% gradient that flirts with the double-climb figures. The road winds through a series of avalanche shelters and you can see the snowy peaks that loom over the pass.
It’s a tough but beautiful climb and you can feel the energy of the peloton as they come past in the other direction. Once you reach the top you’ll be rewarded with spectacular views and a sense of achievement. You can even get your documents rubber-stamped at the shop on the summit if you want proof that you’ve made it.
The finish
Mention the Tourmalet to any cyclist and you’ll get a range of reactions. Some will shift uncomfortably in their seat, a pained grimace washing over their face as they remember the time this legendary climb nearly ruined them; they’ve got unfinished business to settle. Others will be more animated, their faces coming alive with the sense of achievement that comes from tackling one of the highest paved mountain passes in France.
Regardless of how you arrive at the summit, anyone who manages to make it there deserves their moment as King or Queen of the Tourmalet. It’s a legendary climb that has featured in every edition of the Tour de France since its first appearance in 1910, when Octave Lapiz won the polka-dot jersey on top. But it’s also a climb that features in other races, and thousands of amateur cyclists take on the challenge every year. It’s a test of strength, grit and determination that stretches the limits of human endurance.